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   Moisturisers and emollients
   The terms 'moisturiser' (to add moisture) and 'emollient' (to soften) are interchangeable as they describe different effects of these agents on the skin. Basically they have two actions:
   Occlusives, which provide a layer of oil on the surface of the skin to slow water loss and thus increase the moisture content of the stratum corneum.
   Humectants, which are substances introduced into the stratum corneum to increase its water holding capacity.

   Trifolium pratense L.(Red Clover) :
   Red Clover has traditionally been used internally for skin conditions, especially eczema and psoriasis, breast cancer, ovarian cancer, or lymphatic cancer, chronic degenerative diseases, gout, whooping cough, and dry cough. It may relax muscle spasms
   This herb extracts is famous as hermedy of blood purifier,Cooling/Detoxifying Herb for Heat patterns, and used for chronic skin disease medicine, also good effects for acne and more other skin disease, help to make good apperance.
   Red clover is used to treat skin conditions, normally in combination with other purifying herbs such as burdock (Arctium lappa) and yellow dock (Rumex crispus). Red clover is also expectorant and may be used for spasmodic coughs. Red clover's estrogenic effect may be of use in treating menopausal complaints.

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   Arbutin:
   Arbutin ,a natural active material originated from green plants , is a skin decolorzing component with the characteristics of combining quite well green plants safety with high decolorization ,it can quic-kly permeate skin and effectively restrain the activity of biological oxidase-tyrosinade in the skin ,but not affect negatively the cell increment concentration,can quicken the decomposition and excretion of melanin through combining directly itself with tyrosinase so as to de-cresde precipitation of skin pigment and dispel maculae and ephelides There are no side effects no toxicity, no irratation and no allergy on melanin ,id also has functions of bactericidal sterilization and anti-inflammation .Arbutin is a moderm popular safe and high effective raw material for skin-beauty and macula -dispellion active for the 21st century.
   Recommended uses:
     Cosmetics which is used for dispelling maculae or for guarding against and restraining the proliferation of skin pigment, such as macula-dispellion cream sunburmproof cream ,beauty cream and cream for day and night .
     Adding a permeation aiding component in it may improve permeability of arbutin to skin .
     Adding an auxiliary skin decolorizing component in it allows it to have concerted brighterning effects.
     Adding an automatic anti-ocidation component, such as butylated hydroxytoluene etc .
     Arbutin is less in its stability when it stands strong acid.
   Features :
     A raw mater ial for skin-beauty and brightening ;
     Stimulation resistance ;
     Being compatible with amphoteric surfactant and anion;
     Being easy to be used in the formula;

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   Angelica Root P.E. as Beauty and Skin Care Remedy:
   Angelica Root,Botanical Name: Angelica chinesis;Country of Origin:China
   Method of Farming: Pure Natural /Producing Organ: Root
   Known in Europe since the 17th century, Angelica is the fleshy root of the wild celery plant. It stimulates production of digestive juices, improves the flow of bile into the digestive tract, and combats digestive spasms.Don't confuse the European variety of this root with Chinese Angelica, or Dong Quai. The Chinese version is used as a remedy for menstrual problems and the symptoms of menopause, tonic for anemia (loss of red blood cells), and a treatment for heart disease and high blood pressure.
   Angelica is a warming and tonic remedy and is useful in a wide range of illnesses. All parts of the plant will help relieve indigestion, gas, and colic. Angelica can also be useful in cases of poor circulation since it improves blood flow to the peripheral parts of the body. It is considered a specific treatment for Buerger's disease, a condition that narrows the arteries of the hands and feet. By improving blood flow and stimulating the coughing up of phlegm, angelica's warm, tonic properties bring relief from bronchitis and debilitating chest conditions. For respiratory conditions, the roots are most commonly used, but the stems and seeds may be employed as well.
       

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   Ginkgo Biloba P.E.:
   The active ingredients of ginkgo leaf improve circulation and vasodilation. Though this action is evidenced throughout the entire body, it is most noted in the cerebral region. It is a promising remedy for age-related declines in brain function such as Alzheimer's, strokes, and short- or long-term memory loss. Ginkgo is also an antioxidant and is useful against free radicals, substances that damage cellular health and accelerate aging.

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   Natural Calcium:
   Natural Calcium: Formulated for men and women (don't forget children) concerned with maintaining healthy skeletal structure. It's combination of calcium hydroxyapatite, calcium lactate, and magnesium lactate-potentially the most bioavailable forms of calcium and magnesium available today--contains 100% of the Recommended Dietary Allowance (RDA) of calcium, magnesium, Vitamin D, and Vitamin C to support healthy bone structure. Magnesium is a critical part of this formulation because it has been shown to support the bodies calcium absorption potential and may be an important factor in enzymatic reactions such as bone-building. Compliments Natural Progesterone.
   Calcium carbonate is an inexpensive supplement which is an effective source of calcium for many people, but not for those with inadequate stomach acid or other absorption problems.

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   Polygonum Cuspldatum P.E. Trans-resveratrol as natural Moisturisers:
   TransResveratrol is an active component extracted from Huzhang(Polygonum cuspidatum)in China. It is an antioxidant phenol and a potent vasodilator that inhibits ser um triglyceride synthesis, lipid peroxidation, and platelet aggregation.
   Normally used in facial care creams and play a very good antioxidant, also help to make skin more smooth and fine.Also transresveratrol could be used to keep moisture.
   [Solubility]:Solublein diethyl ether, Chloroform,Alcohol ,Acetone, Etc.
      

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   Rosmarinic Acid as natural skin antioxidant:
   Rosmarinic Acid plays a super function in protecting skin and antioxidant,Antioxidation ability better than VC, at least 20 times, and better than green tea at least 3 times, Rosmarinic Acid from red perilla even more good for cosmetic uses, RosA also killing bacteria;good for ladies in sun and outside;
   Botanical Source:Perilla frutescens(L.) Britt.(leaf); or Rosmarinus officinalis L,leaves
   Chemical Name: (R)-a-[[3-(3,4-Dihydroxyphenyl)-1-oxo-2E-propenyl]oxy]-3,4-dihydroxy-benzenepropanoic acid
   Safety]: Certified by FDA as public food material (GRAS,21 CFR Chapter 21,part182). NoHarm to health.
   Solubility:good soluble in cold water.
        

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   Understand your skin type?

   Do you have problem skin?

   Is your skin dry, oily or sensitive?

   Problem skin can be repaired with proper skin care that is based on the science of how skin functions. When you understand how it functions, you will understand to achieve what its need. It is necessary to have an overview in order to repair the damage which can happen to the skin.

   There`s no meaning spending a fortune on expensive skin care products, if you buy the wrong ones for your skin type and collect yourself an assortment of discarded bottles. The key is to analyse your skin type first.

   As an esthetician (and skin care expert) one of the most important things I can help my clients understand is how to choose the proper skin care products for their skin type. You've probably purchased items that you believe are good quality products, only to be disappointed in the results. That product may indeed have been a good one. It could just have been incorrect for your particular skin type.

   Because many people do not know their skin type, they often choose the wrong products which prove to be troublesome, ineffective or harmful for them. You can avoid this by determining precisely what skin type category you fall into and what your skin needs. We will also address dehydration and sensitive skin in more detail because they affect all types of skin.

   At Skin Mortiz, we refer to four basic skin types, depending on how much oil ("sebum") your skin produces: Dry, Oily, Sensitive, Normal / Combo. This page will give you a basic idea of what your skin type is. HOWEVER, you need to remember several things:
   Your skin type can and will change throughout your life, depending on your climate, your age, any hormonal changes, etc. So your current skin type may not be the same as your skin type five years ago. You need to constantly re-assess your skin's needs.
   Every skin is different. If you feel that you don't quite fit into any of the types shown here -- or if you are still now sure -- visit an esthetician or dermatologist. He/she will be able to have a close look at your skin and tell you your skin type.

   DRY SKIN:
   Skin is not producing enough oil.
   Skin can be either oily, dry, or water dry.
   This skin type mostly feel one size too small. It is a fair bet you have got a dry complexion. It is caused by too little sebum in the lower levels of the skin, and too little moisture in the upper levels. At its best it can feel tight and itchy after washing. At its worse it can be flaky with little patches of dandruff. Sometimes in your eyebrows and tendency to premature ageing with the emergence of fine lines and wrinkles. This kind of skin requires soothing care to look its best. Dry skin is caused by many factors. For example our environmental changes in winter time, there is less humidity. Our skin and hair become dry.

   Apperance:
   Never gets shiny - has a matte appearance all over.
   Has very small or invisible pores.

   May also:
   Be slightly flaky.

   OILY SKIN:
   Skin is producing too much oil.
   Have an oily or shiny appearance by midday, all over the face? Oily skin has overactive glands that produce excessive oil, pores that are enlarged and a texture which can resemble an orange peel.
   This skin type usually has open pores and an oily surface with a tendency towards pimples, blackheads and sallow appearance. This is due to the over production of the oily substance called sebum, by the oil glands in the lower layer of the skin. Unfortunately this skin type is the one most prone to acne, but the good news is this oiliness will make this type of skin stay younger looking for longer. There somehow great benefits.

   Apperance:
   Oily or Shiny appearance.
   Blackheads are present.
   Skin usually looks dehydrated.

   May also:
   Have large visible pores.
   Be prone to breakouts.
   Pimples and blackheads.

   NORMAL/ COMBO SKIN
   Many people are a combination of both of these.

   NORMAL SKIN
   Skin is producing just the right amount of oil.
   Get a little shiny in the T-zone area towards late afternoon ?
   (That's the area across your forehead and down your nose to your chin)

   Apperance:
   Occasionally be little dry on the cheeks.
   Have the occasional pimple or blackhead.

   May also:
   Neither oily nor dry.
   Has small pores.

   COMBINATION SKIN
   Skin is producing different amounts of oil in different areas
   Skin may have some oiliness as well as some dryness.
   A few blackheads may be present and this skin rarely breaks out.
   Combination skin needs careful care. This is because it has a blend of oily and dry patches. The centre panel or T-zone across the forehead and down the nose and chin tends to be oily. Needs to be treated like oily skin. However the other areas prone to dryness and flakiness due to lack of moisture, need to be treated like dry skin. Having said this some combination skin don´t follow the T-zone pattern. It can have patches of dry and oily skin in other arrangements. If you are unsure of your skin´s oily and dry areas. Press a tissue on your face for half an hour after washing. Any greasy patches on the tissue signify where are oily areas. Factors causing combination skin may be environmental changes such as humidity,cool weather and wind. Genetic factors inherited from our parents, may be the source of dryness and oiliness as well. Hormones also play a significant role in altering the texture of our skin

   Apperance:
   May develop an oily or shiny appearance in the T-zone by the afternoon.
   Does not get shiny all over.

   May also:
   Have visible pores in the T-zone.
   Be prone to breakouts, pimples and blackheads.
   Occasionally get slightly dry on the cheeks.

   Normal skin
   This is the perfect balanced skin type. It has healthy glow with a fine texture and no open pores. It rarely develops spots or shiny areas. Infact it is quite rare to find a normal skin especially as all skins tend to become slightly drier as you get older. Although this skin is naturally has a good balance of oil and moisture level, but it still need a good daily care routine.

   SENSITIVE SKIN
   Skin has tendency to be easily irritated.
   Everybody's skin has the potential to become "sensitive", although some people experience ongoing symptoms of sensitivity. Characteristics of sensitivity include being troubled by detergents, fragrances and soaps. Sensitive skin may also react to many topical cremes and botanicals. It will usually have small red capillaries present.

   Apperance:
   Tendency to redden easily
   Prone to reactions from various products
   Sensitive skin is usually quite fine in texture with a tendency to be rosier than usual. Easily irritated by products and external factors. It is also prone to redness, allergy and may have fine broken veins across the cheeks and nose. There are varying levels of sensitivity, sometimes it reach the point that you feel you can´t use any more skin products. Our environmental changes and even many consumer household products plays a role on our skin to make it more sensitive. For example laundry dertergents, these can also cause dry and itchy skin. Remember any skin type can also be sensitive but if you have a tendency of this type of skin, you should be carefully to find products which are right for your skin. Your skin needs extra-gentle products to keep it healthy.

   May also be:
   Stinging or uncomfortable sensations, particularly after cleansing.
   Prone to rashes and irritations.
   Tends to burn easily with sun exposure.

   Things to avoid:
   If you have sensitive skin it is a good idea to avoid the following ingredients or products:
   Sodium Lauryl Sulfate / Sodium Laureth Sulfate
   Alcohol, also called Ethanol (note that some ingredients, e.g. Cetearyl Alcohol, sound like alcohol but are not.)
   Alpha and beta hydroxy acids (e.g. glycolic acid, lactic acid, salicylic acid, malic acid)
   Lanolin
   Soap
   Artificial fragrance
   The following essential oils:
   Black Pepper, Cinnamon Bark, Grapefruit, Lemon, Lime, Pine.

   Things to look for:
   Sunscreens with titanium dioxide or zinc oxide as the main ingredient (these ingredients tend to be less irritating than other sunscreens).
   A good return policy, so you can return or exchange the product if you have a reaction.

   OTHER SKIN CONDITIONS

   Now that you have figured out your basic skin type, you may be thinking: "That doesn't quite fit me exactly." Well, that's okay, because you may have a temporary or ongoing skin condition which makes your skin look or behave a little bit differently.

   Let's discuss several factors that may be causing that.

   What Causes Dry Skin?
   Dry skin is recognizable by its tight, rough feel and its dull appearance. Dry skin is apparent in its upper-most layer, the epidermis. Roughly 80% of the body's epidermal cells are made of keratinocytes, composed of soft protein keratin. The epidermal cells are born in the lowest layer of the epidermis, the basal layer. As these cells rise toward the outer (horny) layer, they undergo many changes, including the increase in the amount of keratin they produce. By the time the cells reach the top, they are no longer alive, and are formed entirely of keratin. If the cells contain too little keratin, the appearance begins to look cracked and flaky as cells slough off. Keratin needs water to keep it pliable and healthy; when there is not enough water, the keratin crumbles and the cells can't stay together. This is what happens when the skin becomes dry. In order to keep this from happening, a way must be found to keep water trapped in the skin, keeping the keratin healthy.

   DEHYDRATED SKIN

    Having skin that is lacking in water can be the result of a number of factors, and can affect any skin type.

   Symptoms of dehydrated skin include:

   Flakiness
   Fine, crepey lines on the surface of the skin
   A dull complexion
   Let's talk a little more about what it is.
   Dehydration is when your skin is lacking water. It is not the same thing as dryness, which means that your skin is not producing enough oil.

   How can I tell if my skin is dehydrated?
   Look in the mirror and smile widely. Does your skin crease into many tiny surface lines as it stretches from your nose to your cheeks? Now relax your face. Place your index finger horizontally across your cheek, pointing at your nose. Now gently lift your skin upward with this finger. Do you see a lot of tiny lines, like crepe paper, on the bulge of skin that you have lifted up? If you answered "yes" to these tests, your skin is probably dehydrated. Other visible symptoms of dehydrated skin are flakiness and a dull-looking complexion. What makes skin dehydrated? There are several causes of dehydration: First your body may be dealing with a specific ailment. You could have a vitamin or mineral deficiency in your body. With some,it has to do with diet or what you are using on your skin, and others may be affected by environment or lifestyle.

   Your Cleanser
   Often the cause of dehydration is using a cleanser that is too harsh for your skin. Soap-based cleansers are a major culprit, because they are very alkaline. As a result they tend to damage your skin's natural acidic protection layer or acid mantle, which helps to seal in your skin's moisture balance. Switch to a soap-free cleanser.

   Air Conditioning
   While air conditioning may make the climate a little more comfortable, your skin doesn't fare so well in the super-dry air that your air conditioner pumps out. This effect is particularly noticeable if you go on a long-distance flight, because the pressurized cabin adds to the dehydrating effect on your skin. If you work in air-conditioning, or are on a long flight, you should try and drink as much water as you can - at least the recommended 8 glasses a day, if not more - in order to compensate for the moisture you are losing.

   Smoking
   As if you needed another reason to quit, smoking is very devitalizing and dehydrating on your skin. And even if you're not a smoker yourself, remember that smoky environments, such as clubs and bars, can be just as rough on your skin. Always ask to be seated in the non-smoking section in restaurants, and try to persuade any smokers in your family to take their habit outside!

   Medication
   Prescription medicines can do funny things to your skin. Always ask your doctor when he/she prescribes medication for you, what side-effects (if any) you may experience. Some acne medications in particular can have a very dehydrating effect on the skin. (Note: if your doctor or dermatologist has prescribed medication for skin treatment, make sure you ask what skincare products are okay to use during treatment.)

   How can I treat dehydrated skin?
   We believe in balance and in natural products. Your skin needs an integrated approach to health. We need to feed our body the right diet, and nourish it from within with a Skin Moritz System of Supplements targeted specifically for your skin type. Drink at least 8 glasses of water a day and stay out of the sun. And a little exercise wouldn't hurt.
   As mentioned above, check to make sure your cleanser isn't the culprit. If, after cleansing, your skin feels taut or itchy, if you don't moisturize straight away, think about trying something different.
   Exfoliate regularly. Sloughing off those dead skin cells will help to reduce the appearance of flakiness.
   Use a moisturizer after cleansing - a cream is best for a dry skin, and oily skin will benefit most from a gel, which replaces lost water without adding more oil.

   ROSACEA
   One last note on Sensitve Skin. "ROSACEA"
   If you have been diagnosed with ROSACEA, you have sensitive skin. You should treat this skin carefully and avoid harsh ingredients such as alcohols, perfumes, fragrances, spicy foods, extreme hot or cold foods/environment and sun exposure. Always wear a sun block. Look for ingredients and products that are soothing and hydrating.

   ROSACEA
   A chronic disease that involves the capillaries of the face & eyes, Rosacea involves pronounced flushing in early stages often followed by enlargement of the nose area and pimple type bumps.
   It usually starts between the ages of 30 to 50 and ten million people in the USA suffer from it.
   Lifestyle modifications, proper skin care routines , avoiding skin products that contain fragrance, dyes, chemicals, alcohols, and using skin care products formulated for Rosacea along with regular visits to the Doctor can keep this condition under control until a cure is found. It is believed to be genetic in nature. Recently it has become known that the bacteria H. pylori bacteria (often blamed for stomach ulcers) has a link to Rosacea. Antibiotic therapy has proven effective in treating early stages of Rosacea. Avoid histamine rich foods such as chocolate, figs, bananas, tomatoes, spinach, eggplant. In addition avoid spicy foods, alcohol and extreme temperatures (hot or cold) in your environment, particularly a shower or bath. This will keep the capillaries from swelling. The most beneficial thing you can do in addition to all of this is avoid sun exposure. You must wear a sun block if you want to keep the Rosacea under control.
   Note: Just because a product is labeled "hypoallergenic", there is no guarantee that your skin will not react to it. Hypoallergenic simply means "less likely to cause a reaction".


   Scientific References:
    
    1.Natural Extracts as Emollients...Via Michael Derrida

   Amanuensis&Symbol trace Calligrapher: Michael Derrida