Mucuna pruriens,L-DOPA and its fame.

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L-DOPA:Cosmetic Applications.

Mucuna pruriens Extract.L-DOPA INCI Name Mucuna pruriens seed Extract CAS 90064-10-1 EINECS ELINCS No 290-071-6 Levodopa 3-Hydroxy-L-tyrosine Hgh Dopa photo picture image Mucuna pruriens is an Asian plant of the Fabaceae family.Also know as velvet bean,it bears white,lavender or purple flowers and pods that are covered in orange hairs.Naturally rich in 3,4-dihydroxy-L-phenylalanine(L-DOPA),the seed powder is used to fight Parkinson's disease and other disorders.

 A tan is the result of an over-production of a dark pigment,melanin,caused by UV stimulation.

 Melanin is synthesized in melanocytes from tyrosine through a complex multi-step biochemical reaction called melanogenesis.In the presence of tyrosinase enzyme,tyrosine is first oxydised to L-DOPA,and then to DOPAquinone.From that point,two kinds of melanin are formed:red/yellow pheomelanins and brown/black eumelanins.Pigments,transfered from melanocytes to keratinocytes,tan the skin when they arrive at the surface of the epidermis.

 Therefore as well as tyrosine and its derivatives,L-DOPA is an another efficient substrate for the synthesis of melanin.

 Concentrated at 30% of L-DOPA,such a mix brings a new substrate to melanogenesis and accelerates the apparition of a natural tan.

 The tanning effect of a cream containing 0.5% of such mix,applied daily for 15 days,has been evaluated on the forearms of 10 volunteers versus a placebo.After 3 days of pretreatment,the skin received 1 MPD(Minimal Pigmentation Dose) of UVA for 3 successive days.Volunteers then continues to apply the cream for a further 9 days.

 Experiment Proved following effects:

 Immediate Pigmentation Effects: 2 hours after the first UVA radiation,an immediate skin coloration is largly visible due to the Meirowsky effect.This phenomenon which doesn't last is due to an oxidation of melanin substrates and melanin already present in the skin.

 Tan Intensity:After 3 days of UVA exposure,tan appears more intense on the skin treated with cream containing such a mix(+39%).Used in a sun care product,this mix will provide a natural tan with reduced sun exposure.

 Long Lasting Tan:After 2 weeks of use of the cream with such a mix, a nice tan is still present.After sun care formulated with this mix will extend the lifetime of a natural tan.

 Such a Mix composed of Mucuna pruriens seed extract(and) Maltodextrin,appear as Beige to grey powder,formulation process need to add below 40 Deg C,Avoid chelating agents,Stabilize with ascorbic acid,citric acid or N-acetyl cysteine,Dosage at 0.5%,Optimum pH:4~5,Application for Tan preparing care,sun care,after sun care,radiant day care.

 Products:such a mix can be used to make Radiant Moisturizer,Tanning Sun Cream at above dosage 0.5%.

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citations1.Mucuna pruriens,L-DOPA and its fame.

last edit date:29th,June.2009.